1、Fashion,which is as old as time and as new as tomorrow,is one of the most powerful forces in our lives .It influences what we wear,the way we talk,the foods we eat,the way we live,how and where we travel,what we travel,what we look at,and what we listen to.Fashion is what lead us todiscard a product
2、 that is still useful but is no longer “in”.It is also what makes us sometimes wear more clothes than we may actually need,and sometimes less than is needed to product us from the ccold or the sun.流行是这样一种事物，是我们抛弃了还可以使用，但不再时髦的产品。有时候使我们穿比我们真正穿的衣服多，有时候比我们穿抵御严寒酷暑的少。If there is one absolute constant pert
3、aining to fashion,it is the fact that it is always changing-sometimes rapidly,sometimes slowly,but it is never static or dormant.This element of change is recognized in the definitions of fashion itself cited earlier,by the use of such words as “prevailing”or “a given period of time.”To ignore the e
4、lement of change is like looking at a still photograph in place of a motion picture.The still tells you what is happening here and now ;the motion picture shows you what came before and what may lie ahead.如果存在着一种符合流行的绝对永恒，那就是流行是永远变化着的这一事实，（这种变化）时快时慢，但绝不会固定下来或呈休止状态。“Fashion is a social phenomenon whi
5、ch reflects the same continuing change that rides through any given age .”Change in fashion ,he emphasized,correspond with the subtle and often hidden network of forces that operate on society“流行是一种社会现象，它反映了任何特定年代同样都要经历的持续变化。”他强调说：“流行变迁与那些作用于社会的影响力量所具有的微妙，而又常常是暗藏着的系统是一致的。”It is only in restrospect t
6、hat fashion changes seem marked or sudden .Autually ,they come about as a result of a series of gradual shifts from one season to the next.For example ,when womens skirts began inching up from midcalf in the 1960s,this gradual shortening was not particularly noticeable at first .It was only when ski
7、rts moved thigh-high,in the form of minis and micro-minis ,that people took notice of the approaching extreme.Similarly,when men begin to abandon ultrannarrow ties and suit lapels in favor of more and more width,the changs are not noticed at first.只有当追溯过去的时候，流行的变迁才显得特别引人注目或突然，实际上，这些变迁的发生是从一个季节到另一个季节
8、的一系列逐渐变化的结果。例如，女裙的逐渐变短的时候并没有被注意到，。Color can be the basis for a whole group or line .It is the first element to which consumers respond .People relate personally to color,usually either selecting or rejecting a garment beccause of its ccolor appeal.Therefore,designers must cconsider their customers a
9、nd provide colors that are both appealing and flattering.色彩是整个款式系列中的基本要素，它是能够引起顾客回应的第一要素。人们把色彩和个人联系起来，他们往往根据颜色来选择或拒绝一件衣服，因此设计师必须考虑他们的顾客，并且提供出令他们喜爱和满意的色彩，消费群体。In clothing,neutrals such as beige,tan,brown,white ,gray,and black are even more popular than the ccolors just mentioned.The reason is probabl
10、y that they present a pleasing background for the wearer without completing for attention. Neutrals are part of every season”s fashion picture ,as either a strong fashion statement or a way to round out a color story.在服装中，中色调例如灰中色，深褐，褐色，白灰和黑色，甚至还有比刚刚提到的更多的颜色。原因大概是因为这些中间色调不会因被关注而引发攀比，从而为竞争者提供了一个满意的穿着
11、环境，每季时装系列中都会运用一部分中间色调，不是用以加强时装的表达，便是使色彩系列搭配更趋完善。The Brewster and Prang therories define red ,yellow,and blue as the three primarries from which all other colors are derived.Mixing yellow and red paints creats orange ;red and blue creat purple ;and blue and yellow creat greenthe three secondary color
12、s.Mixtures of primary and secondary colors creat every color in between.布鲁斯特和普朗定义红，黄，蓝为三原色，即所有颜色的起源。将黄色和红色的颜料混合变成橘黄，红色加蓝色变成紫色，蓝色和黄色变成绿色，三种二次色。混合原色和二次色将会变成两色之间任何一种颜色。Monochromatic or tonal color schemes employ varying values and intensities of one hue .(Mono,means one and chroma means hue or color.)T
13、he resulting look is very refined .However ,textural,variety is needed to created interest.单色调或同色调的色彩设计方案是在同一色相下变幻同一色彩的明度和纯度（Mono是“一个”“单”的意思，Choroma 是色相或颜色的意思）这种方法会达到极强的效果，构成上的变化要能够使人产生兴趣。29页Color is interpreted in the medium of fabric.If colors are chosen first,then prints are colored in the desire
14、d scheme are solids dyed to match.Sometimes,however,the fabric itself will inspire the color group.色彩以面料为媒介得以体现，先选择颜色，然后按要求的方法去印花和染色，然而有时面料本身就会激发出色彩的组合。The adaptation of a trend depends on the particular group of people whp are potential consumers.Sources of influence and methods of adaptation vary
15、with the consumers age range,income level ,lifestyle,and fashion preference.产生影响的来源和采纳（流行）的方法因消费者的年龄层，收入水平，生活方式以及对时装的偏爱而异。54页It would impossible to ask all consumer what they will want two or three years from now .Therefore,producers and manufacturers must anticipate cconsumer wants and needs .Befor
16、e they do any designing,manufacturing,or retailing,they undertake market studies to determine who ccurrent or potential customers are,what factors influence their buying decisions,and ultimately what they will want.However,market research,with or without advertising,can only guide.It doesnt show how
17、 to fill consumer wants and needs.我们不可能了解所有的消费者从现在开始的两年或三年内他们打算买什么样的商品。因此，生产商必须满足消费者的需求，在他们作出任何设计制造或零售计划之前，他们需要着手做市场研究来确定哪些人是目前或潜在的什么因素影响他们购买的决策以及最后他们想要得到什么。When viewing the major collections ,manufaccturers,retailers,and the press try to analyze trend directions.Usually a few collections take simil
18、ar directions because of common economic ,technological,and social influences.Designers and buyers alike try to single out the styles they feel are prophetic .It is very helpful to be able to see and feel the actual garments and to examine styling details,construction techniques ,and fit.在观看比较重要的时装发
19、布会时，生产商，制造商 ，零售商和新闻界会试着分析流行趋势，由于相同的经济技术几个发布会会出现相似的局势，同样地，设计师和买手们，尝试着选出他们认为将会流行的款式，能够观察和感受到实际的服装，考察款式，细节，结构技术和合体性。Conversion to the metric system would have its greatest impact on sizing,patternmaking ,and grading because all three processes involve linear measurements.Designers and pattern-makers wo
20、uld have to think in centimeters and millimeters instead of inches,relating body dimensions to garment patterns in metric terms.Although an adjustment period would be required,it would actually be easier to work in subdivisions of 100 than in fractions of an inch.由于在量体制板推板三个过程中均涉及长度测量，因此将尺寸转化成米制在这三个
21、方面将会体现出最大的影响。设计师和样板师习惯于厘米，毫米而不是英寸，所以人体尺寸和服装样板要用公米制来表述。Patterns,like garments,must provide for different sizes.Grading is the method used to increase or decrease the sample-size production pattern to make up a complete size range.For example ,a size 10 is made larger to a 12,a 14,and a 16,and smaller
22、 to an 8 and a 6.Each company sets predetermined grade specifications ,or rules.像服装这一类的样板必须提供不同的型号，推板就是在样品号型纸样的基础之上，通过增加或减小尺寸的方法来完成全部尺寸。例如，通过10号的号型向大推出12，14和16，向小推出8和6号，每一个公司都会设置预先确定的推挡规格。In addition to knowing basic mathematics,the grader(like the patternmaker)must have good visual judgment in orde
23、r to redraw the curve of an arehole or neckline ,to decide on height and width relationships for pockets,and so on.除了要了解基础数学以外，推板人员（像制版人员一样）一定要有很好的视觉判断力，以便修整袖笼和领口的弧线，以及判断口袋高于宽之间的关系等等。From all the pattern pieces of varying sizes,a master marker is made .The marker is the cutting guide or pattern layo
24、ut,made on a sheet of paper the same width as the fabric .The purposes of the marker are these:1. To place pattern pieces close together to avoid fabric waste.The desired economical use of space is called a tight marker.2. To accommodate the ccutting order,or to lay out the patterns so that each siz
25、e and color are cut as needed.根据每片样板的尺寸一张排料图就完成了，排料图指导排料和裁剪的操作，它是在一张和面料同样幅宽的纸上绘制的。1为了把纸样紧密排列以免浪费布料，这种节约的排料措施叫做紧凑排料。2 调整剪裁的顺序或排列样板的位置，这种每种尺寸和颜色的衣片就能按照需要裁剪。All woven and knitted fabrics and some nonwoven fabrics have direction,or grain.The grain is determined by the position of the yarns and fibers in
26、 the fabric.In woven fabrics ,the grain must be made straight.Then pattern pieces must be cut out in the same direction as the grain if the garment is to hang properly.Woven fabrics are constructed by interlacing yarns at right angles to each other.There are three grain directions.所有的机织物，针织物和某一些非织造物
27、都有方向或纹理 。纹理是由织物当中纱线和纤维所处的位置决定的。在机织物中纹理必须是垂直的，如果服装穿着后服帖，那么裁片必须要按照纹理方向裁剪。机织物是由彼此垂直的纱线形成的，它有三种纹理方向。You have seen that the straightened ends of off-grain fabric do not match when it is folded lengthwise.To straighten an off grain fabric ,open it up and pull on the short corners.You may wish to ask anoth
28、er person to help you do this .Then ,fold the fabric again,placing the selvages together.Check to see if the raw edges of the grain has been changed.Repeat this process until the raw edges of the fabric are even and the corners match.你可发现，织物纵向对折时，丝缕歪斜的织物已经找直的也是不对称的，为了直正丝缕歪斜的织物，把它打开并拉紧短的两个角你可以请其他两个人来
29、帮忙，然后再次折叠织物，使布边重合在一起，检查丝缕是否有所改变，重复此过程，直到织物毛边刚好对称，并且角对齐。You will find that ,in general,there are three kinds of outlets for clothing.The cheap range is found in the variety stores or discount stores.The medium range is found in the department stores ,in the “average”suburban fashion shops and in the
30、speciality shops,The most expensive clothes are found only in a few of the city and suburban shous,in boutiques that sell clothes by local designers with famous names and by exclusive overseas fashion houses.6The overseas manufacture unfashionable garments in stock.The overseas manufacturer may have a minimum order limit so the importer may have to order more garments than he needs and risk not being able to sell all his stock.海外制造商都有一个最低的起订量，所以进口商订购的服装可能会不得不多于他们的需要量，从而要承担卖不完的风险。
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